Plan your training

Plan your training

Short-term progress is inconsistent. To make significant progress, you need consistent loads in a similar pattern over several workouts. Chain your workouts from one to the next one to make progress and make planning for training very easy.

Make your plan

Identify your goals and choose workouts

Maybe you want to train for a specific outdoor project, maybe you want to increase your climbing level in general or maybe you are into competitions and want to improve on harder routes or be able to stay on longer routes. Whether you’re a committed athlete or a climber at recreational level who just wants to improve, your goals are unique to you.

Need to improve your endurance and raise your sport climbing level?
Choose
HIIT Lead. If you like, you can support your training routine with Running.

Want to train endurance and power endurance for bouldering or maybe want to have some more power (endurance) for sport climbing? Choose HIIT Boulder.

Need some extra boulder power
? Choose HIIT Boulder Power. But start building a solid base with Boulder Workouts first before starting with Boulder Power Workouts. Use Boulder Power Workouts in your prep phase (for competition or projects) to develop some extra power for extreme moves.

Strength training is fundamental for any training routine. Identify your Strength Start Level and add Strength Workouts to your training program. Complete Strength Basics first and continue with Strength Progressions.

If you like (but not necessary) you can add Running to your training program. With running you optimize your training routine by developing a better oxygen supply and maximum function of oxygen transportation which will support your body in your climbing training routine. Running workouts can also be a substitute if you don’t have the option to train lead for a certain period.

For more help choosing workouts and determining your Start Level,
see our FITclimbing Planner.

Frequency

How much and how often you want to train is up to you. Here are guidelines to optimize your training.

  • Doing a workout 1 x per week = keeping your level
  • Doing a workout 2 or 3 x a week = making progression
  • Maximum for HIIT Workouts = 2 times a week
  • Maximum for Strength Workouts = 3 times a week
  • Maximum for Running = 2 times a week
Recovery and combining workouts

Every workout has its own recovery time before doing the next one. When planning multiple workouts per week divide them proportionally over the week and follow guidelines below for the recovery time for each training.

 

Recovery time
before training

Recovery time in between
2 similar trainings

HIIT Lead Workouts

12 hrs

24 hrs

HIIT Boulder Workouts

24 hrs

48 hrs

HIIT Boulder Power Workouts

24 hrs

48 hrs

Strength Basics Workouts

24 hrs

48 hrs

Strength Progressions Workouts

24 hrs

48 hrs

Running Workouts

12 hrs

24 hrs

Example; you have done a Strength Workout Monday evening. You could plan a HIIT Lead Workout the next (Tuesday) morning because you need 12 hours recovery before this training. Your next Strength Workout needs to be Wednesday evening or later because you need 48 hours rest after the first Strength Workout.
Check ‘make a plan’ to learn more about combining and planning training.

You can combine 2 workouts in 1 training session as long as the total training time is never longer than 2 – 2,5 hours. For example, you can easily combine a Strength Basics (level 1 or 2) with climbing afterwards. When a workout is really intensive, like HIIT or Strength Progressions our advice is to focus on the chosen workout only and maybe combine it with stretching or yoga.

Do you want to train for sport climbing and bouldering? You could combine HIIT lead and boulder workouts, but our advice is to choose one of these options which fits best with your goals for a certain period and combine it with free climbing from the other discipline. For example, choose twice a week for HIIT Boulder Workouts in the boulder season and combine with free lead climbing another day and switch for the lead season.

Chaining

You start with no.1 of your start level. Ideally, repeat a workout twice and then go up to the next workout.

If you fail (fall) more than 3 times during a training session, choose 1 grade easier than the workout indicates. Complete the session as well as you can! During the next training session, you then choose 1 or more workouts lower than the workout you did last time. Repeat this process until you no longer fail.

Planning rest weeks are also important. Taking a rest is one of the most important elements of training (also in between workouts). But always try to train to chain workouts for a minimum number of weeks to get results.

  • Minimum for HIIT Workouts = 4 weeks after each other
  • Minimum for Strength Workouts = 3 weeks after each other
  • Minimum for Running Workouts = 4 weeks after each other
Pause

Try to have a maximum rest between the workouts of 6 days.

But what if I can’t train for one or more weeks? Which workout should you pick up your training with?

  • After 1 week of no training < start with the Workout you did last
  • After 2 weeks of no training < start with 1 Workout below the one you did last
  • After 3 weeks of no training < start with 2 Workouts below the one you did last
  • After 4 weeks of no training < start with 3 Workouts below the one you did last
  • More than 4 weeks without training < start 4 Workout below the one you did last

These guidelines also apply when starting up again or planning training weeks for climbing trips or having a competition period.