Training Notes; my #stayathome training

Training Notes; my #stayathome training

I just started for one week with my training routine again, after one week of total rest (the first non-climbing holidays in years). And then…. there was the shutdown. The gym closed, and the government asked us to stay at home as much as possible. So it meant reorganizing my training schedule.

Luckily I was having my weights and some training tools at home. This could be an excellent opportunity for an experiment. Home training, without access to the gym, like in the earlier days and staying fit for climbing and maybe even making some progress.

So let’s give you some insights into the adjustments I did in my plan to keep training.

 

What did my training look like the week before the shutdown.

 

2 x week HIIT Boulder to train power endurance and endurance.

Started again with Boulder 6b.03. Normal level is 6c but because of an annoying fall in my bad shoulder, I choose one level lower to make sure I can control all the moves and skipping the ‘dangerous’ boulders for the shoulder. Climb like this gives the same intensity as the regular way of climbing on 6c level.

2 x week Strength workout 

Mainly shoulder hypertrophy and for now, only general maintenance for the lower body, in my case for now split squat and plank, no deadlifts for now. No hangs for now but do some test hangs training to check for startup hangs again.

All workouts were evenly distributed over the week. So for me, it was;
> Strength (+ test hangs) on Tuesday and Friday
> HIIT Boulder on Thursday and Sunday

 

The context, wished outcome and thoughts.

  • I probably have to swop weights a bit more than usual, but with the tools, at home, I can continue my strength workout. Maybe increase to 3 times a week.
  • I also have a pull-up bar, elastic power bands, fitness ball, rings and hang board.
  • Luckily I can live with a few weeks of no climbing. Before it would be more difficult but having 25 years climbing experience it isn’t that hard, I can handle that.
  • The HIIT Boulder should be replaced. We are allowed to go out for a short walk or run, so the HIIT Running workouts would be possible. It can replace an (endurance) part of HIIT Boulder.
  • Power endurance will be trained with Strength workouts. It can partly be covered by adding mobility workouts which is also beneficial for extra mobility.
  • So strength workout will develop anaerobic fitness and recovery capacity. Still, we will miss training local anaerobic fitness (forearms). It would be helpful to at least start hangs again, also to keep the fingers strong during this non-climbing period.
  • The shutdown will be at least 3 weeks, but more probably 5 weeks or even more. We plan with 6 weeks for now.
  • The outcome should be to stay fit and at least at the same climbing level as before the shut down (6c/7a onsight) for bouldering outdoors during summer (when possible).
  • Of course, we want to see progress in shoulder strength.
  • Working towards training 5 times a week again. During winter I train 4 times a week (because of the cold and dark winter days). During spring and summer, I increase to 5 times a week.

 

So how does the #stayathome plan look like?


Workouts
  • Continue Strength program (for strength, shoulder hypertrophy and power endurance), make progress by adding weights and start follow up workout after deload week (wk 4).
  • HIIT Running Workouts to train endurance, I am not experienced with running so I start with workout no.1.
  • Mobility workouts for some extra power endurance and keeping up with mobility.
  • Hangs; start with 10s hang x 4 – 30 sec rest, 3 sets and expand during the weeks. Focus on power endurance, so more hangs instead of focus on smaller holds (strength).
Time-wise
  • Keep on track with my regular routine from 3 weeks of intensive training and 1 week deload with 40% volume and load, with at least 1 strength training ½ weighted.
  • Start building up for training 5 times a week but intensive training for 3 days in a row isn’t wise at this moment so, therefore, using the following routine, 2 days of training (strength first, running second) and 1 day of rest, etc.

This will make the following schedule for the next few weeks.
* every training day doing a shoulder exercise session in the morning.

Week
Mo
Tu
Wo
Th
Fr
Sa
Su
1
x
Strength
HIIT Boulder
x
Strength
x
HIIT Boulder
2
x
Strength + Hang
Running 01 + Mobility
x
Strength + Hang
Running 02 + Mobility
x
3
Strength + Hang
Running 03 + Mobility
x
Strength + Hang
Running 03 + Mobility
x
Strength + Hang
4 (deload)
x
Running 04 (recovery run)
Mobility
x
Strength 1/2 weighted
Running 04 (recovery run)
x
5
Strength + Hang
Running 05 + Mobility
x
Strength + Hang
Running 05 + Mobility
x
Strength + Hang
6
Running 06 + Mobility
x
Strength + Hang
Running 06 + Mobility
x
Strength + Hang
Running 07 + Mobility
7
x
Strength + Hang
Running 07 + Mobility
x
Strength + Hang
Running 08 + Mobility
x
8
deload, easy training and hopefully climbing again at the gym or outdoors!!

So this should do it. Only concern would be the outcome of my local anaerobic power from forearms, but building a good fitness these weeks will help me build up quickly again when we have access to the gyms again. On top of this training regime, I sand my fingers with sandpaper and after that nurturing them with a skin repair product to try to keep my rough climbers skin. Let’s see what the outcome will be.

Strength workout
Mobility workout
Heart rate running